介绍：With a name. like Chutzpah, (12214 Fairfax Town Center 703-385-8883), you'd better be good. Hoping to bring to Fairfax a taste of an authentic New York deli, owner Eric Roller sets out pickles and coleslaw on the tables; hired a Brookyln-born chef, Todd Epstein, to cook; and insists on making by hand the corned beef for his sandwiches and even the dough for his kreplach. The menu of the fledgling, 60-seat eatery is sprinkled with Yiddish-along with a few warnings for novices. As in, don't even think about asking for cheese or mayonnaise on your pastrami. "We're trying to educate people" about deli etiquette, says Roller, who grew up in the Bronx. One suburban food spy praises the corned beef but adds that the servers aren't rude enough to qualify as authentic, to which Roller responds "We're too new to start (ticking) people off."